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January 28, 2016 at Cardiff Reef | I Surfed There! | 2016

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V.V.V. Session started by V.V.V., on Thursday, 28 January 2016 16:00

I didn't have a longboard available today so I took the Ghost Rider. I would have brought the Morey McTavish Tracker, but I split its nose open last Friday (and it split my nose open too!) in a self inflicted collision on an inside right at Tourmo. It was almost exactly the same type of scenario as Christmas day of 2013, when I took the Cooperfish in the mouth and bicep. Ouch.

Anyhow today was bigger than I expected, which was fine with me! And it was super clean! Billy Harris and a few other dudes I recognize sat outside waiting for the bigger set waves, and I hung a little inside of them to maximize my wave count (lots of work to catch up on, but "all work and no play..." as the saying goes...;-) 

I love riding GR at the Reef, especially when the waves are glassy and easy to read. I got 5-6 lefts in about an hour and had a blast. A couple were shoulder/head high and just fired down the line. The drops were out of this world, the water color was a brilliant blue/green, and I caught it at just the right tide, about 4.5' high at 11am. So fun! Right as I was leaving a little breeze started to kick up, and it seemed the lefts were starting to wall up more as the tide turned. Still looked plenty fun when I left though!

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